Is it possible to color your hair with a semi-permanent or permanent one without using the developer? Are there any alternatives to the hair developer to use with dye?
A developer has a few crucial roles in the hair dyeing process. It opens the outer layer of hair strands, called the cuticle, and enables the dye molecules to penetrate through it to reach the cortex. It also acts as an activator dye and oxidant of melanin.
So, if you use permanent hair dye without a developer, the hair cuticle will not open, and the color molecules wouldn’t reach the middle layer of the hair.
In other words, you won’t be able to dye your hair. You may see the light tint from dyeing on some hair patches that will eventually wash away within a few days.
If you don’t know what the developer is all about in hair dyeing and why you can’t use a hair dye without it, we have made it easy to know you in this article.
Why Can’t You Use a Hair Dye Without a Developer?
A developer, also called hydrogen peroxide, oxidizes your original hair color and also activates dye molecules. It comes in different percentages (3%, 6%, 9%, 12%), and each one lifts your hair color to a specific level.
For example, if you want to go from level four brown hair color to level 7, which is blonde, you need to mix volume 30 developer (9%) with the hair dye.
A hair developer typically contains the following ingredients.
- Hydrogen Peroxide
- Ammonia
- Couplers
In the following, we have explained a developer’s three most crucial roles in the permanent hair dyeing process. After going through these functions, you may better understand why you can’t use a hair dye without a developer.
1. Developer Opens the Cuticle
Typically, the hair cuticle sits flat, protecting the inner layers of your hair. However, whenever there is a change in pH or your hair strands undergo some heating process, the cuticle opens, exposing the other layers to damage.
A permanent hair dyeing procedure includes using a developer, which changes the pH of hair strands with the help of ammonia and opens cuticles. Subsequently, hair dye molecules enter the cortex, where your original hair pigment is present.
The hair cuticle’s opening with a developer’s help involves moisture and protein loss from the hair strands, which makes your hair weak and dry. Due to these side effects of the developer, people are always reluctant about using it with a hair dye.
But, if you want to dye your hair with permanent hair color, you will always need a developer that can open the cuticle and escort the dye molecules to the hair cortex.
2. A Developer as Hair Color Oxidant
If you are trying to dye your dark shade hair into some lighter tint permanently, you will need to lighten the dark hair color. Here comes the role of hair color oxidizer, which is most commonly a developer containing hydrogen peroxide.
After it opens the hair cuticle, the developer reaches the middle layer of hair (cortex) to oxidize your original hair color pigment, melanin. If you want to lift your hair color to 3 levels, you need a developer with a higher percentage of hydrogen peroxide.
Did you know that the higher the volume of a developer, the more hair damage it will cause?
| Volume Developer | Percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide | Levels of Color Lifts |
|---|---|---|
| 10 | 3% | 1 |
| 20 | 6% | 1-2 |
| 30 | 9% | 3 |
| 40 | 12% | up to 8 |
While some of the hair dye may reach the cortex without the help of a developer, you can’t oxidize the original hair color by using a dye alone. As a result, using a permanent hair dye without a developer won’t get you the ideal hair color lift and uniform hair tint.
3. Developer Activates Color Molecules
As a result of the oxidation of melanin pigment with the help of hydrogen peroxide, a new chemical compound is produced called oxidized paraphenylenediamine. This new compound reacts with the tiny dye particles and converts them into giant color molecules.
It becomes nearly impossible for these giant dye molecules to escape the hair cortex when the cuticle is closed after dyeing. And in this way, these color molecules give your hair an artificial tint by remaining entrapped under the cuticle.
Does Hair Dye Work Without A Developer?
So, what happens when you use hair dye without a developer?
First, the hair cuticle will not open, and the dye molecule won’t reach the cortex ultimately. Second, your original hair color will not get oxidized.
Lastly, the dye molecules will not get activated and turn into big particles that permanently remain entrapped under the cuticle and give your hair an artificial color.
People often confuse the role of the developer and think they can use conditioner instead to lift hair color. Do you also think the same?
What Can You Use Instead of a Developer When Dyeing Hair?
There is nothing such as a substitute for a developer when dyeing your hair. So, if you want to dye your hair permanently, the developer is inevitable because:
- It opens the cuticle with the help of ammonia
- It oxidizes your original hair color.
- The developer activates dye molecules.
However, if your scalp is allergic to it, there are specially formulated options to serve this purpose.
You can use drugstore hydrogen peroxide instead of a developer when dyeing your hair, but it may not get you the ideal results. The developer comes with ammonia which is crucial for opening the hair cuticle, the first step of dyeing hair with permanent color.
Some people even go for conditioner instead of a developer to dye or bleach their hair, which is purely a waste of time and money.
Can I Add a Developer To Semi Permanent Hair Dye?
No, you shouldn’t add a developer to a semi-permanent hair dye. A semi-permanent dye does not need to enter the hair cortex because it only coats your hair from the outside.
So, if you use a developer with it, the dye molecules may reach the cortex, but there will be no reaction to lighten hair strands or activate dye molecules.
Semi-permanent dye only tones and adds luster to your hair from the outside. It washes away entirely with seven to eight shampoos. Therefore, if you add a developer to it, you might see toned patches of your hair.
Wrapping Up
Using a hair a permanent hair dye without a developer will not color your hair permanently. The developer has three main functions in permanent hair dyeing. It opens the hair cuticle with the help of ammonia. It oxidizes the original hair color using hydrogen peroxide. And finally, it activates the dye molecules by promoting a particular reaction.
Therefore, there is no sense in using a dye without a developer unless you want to waste your money and time.
